Saturday, 15 August 2015
Dashboard
Like the Ruby this 750 Special came with a nice dashboard panel, just needed a quick lick of paint. I managed to get an original A7 Speedo, AC Petrol gauge and a rather nice looking oil pressure gauge from various ebay auctions. The ammeter is reproduction Massey Ferguson unit (at least the pointer is a vintage shape). The red waning lamp and panel illumination switch are reproductions. The lights switch came in the parts box. The blank holes are for the choke and starter pulls. I had to make an adapter washer for the warning lamp and fabricate at least three of the retaining brackets. Look forward to mating it with a wiring loom some time.
Here is an Index page for the build
Friday, 14 August 2015
Steering
I was given an alloy A7 steering box and column as part of the parts purchase. I had it cleaned up by Aliblast Services. I then striped it down to clean all the cr..p out of it using a parts washer. The parts looked in good condition but the thrust washer was missing. I made a new one on the lathe.
The next task was to secure it to the body and chassis. This may tell me if the body belong to this chassis. The two critical dimensions are the distance from diff to rear tub (120mm minimum) and the position of the column as it attaches to the dashboard.
To facilitate a lowered steering column I had the Super Accessories mounting wedge. There was some evidence of a further rake beyond that as the lower part of the steering box flange had been filed. I decided to make an additional 10mm wedge to match that shape as I am tight for the body fit on that chassis.
Subsequent to this experiment I made a custom fabrication as the steering box had a habit of flapping about a bit under load.
Steering wheel
The steering wheel looks a bit of a challenge. It is 15" in diameter and is of a nice vintage 3 spoke period design. It came with a rather nice wheel "tilter" mechanism and latch (to help get you in and out) but I have no idea how to fit it, in my application. It looks like you weld it on to the column directly but that would eliminate any servicing possibilities for the steering box. The diameter is a bit large without a "tilter" to get in and out easily. More thought required.
The next task was to secure it to the body and chassis. This may tell me if the body belong to this chassis. The two critical dimensions are the distance from diff to rear tub (120mm minimum) and the position of the column as it attaches to the dashboard.
To facilitate a lowered steering column I had the Super Accessories mounting wedge. There was some evidence of a further rake beyond that as the lower part of the steering box flange had been filed. I decided to make an additional 10mm wedge to match that shape as I am tight for the body fit on that chassis.
Steering box, SA wedge and my 10mm spacer |
Steering box mounted |
The steering wheel looks a bit of a challenge. It is 15" in diameter and is of a nice vintage 3 spoke period design. It came with a rather nice wheel "tilter" mechanism and latch (to help get you in and out) but I have no idea how to fit it, in my application. It looks like you weld it on to the column directly but that would eliminate any servicing possibilities for the steering box. The diameter is a bit large without a "tilter" to get in and out easily. More thought required.
Update 4th Aug 21
The original style steering wheel was sold off on ebay and The steering has been redesigned and converted to Hilman Imp rack and pinion the steering . The new steering wheel is now smaller and removable. See later postings.
Saturday, 1 August 2015
Body fit
I have been torturing myself in thought about the body fit since purchase, in reality however the only issue is the length of the body front part vs the chassis. If I am required to lengthen the body, . all the alloy panels are single curved design so remanufacture is in fact quite simple. However after fitting the steering column all appears to fit quite well.
The most elegant solution to the body fit is to cut cut and bend the rear chassis legs 22deg inwards (instead of outwards), simples! The petrol tank will eventually fit between the rear chassis legs as before, even if it is a different shape.
Here is an Index page for the build
The most elegant solution to the body fit is to cut cut and bend the rear chassis legs 22deg inwards (instead of outwards), simples! The petrol tank will eventually fit between the rear chassis legs as before, even if it is a different shape.
Before chassis mods |
After chassis mods |
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