Brake pedal and steering box mounting

Now that the front bodywork frame is in place I can set my sights on the intermediate goal of getting a rolling chassis with brakes and steering.

The next job was to mount the steering box at the required angle for an open topped special and get the brake pedal mounted correctly relative to the bodywork also.

I have the alloy wedge, the normal way of changing the steering angle but that has proved to be a poor solution as the angle provided is not quite low enough and even when all bolted up looks rather flimsy (will not take a good shake without everything moving).

I decided to make a new steering box mounting and modify the brake pedal position to suit my front bodywork. The pedal  had to be bent with some heat from my acetylene kit to achieve the desired pedal layout.

Slight bend to pedal

Steering box mounted

Now connected to the hand brake

Update 4th Aug 21

The steering has been converted to Hilman Imp rack and pinion the steering wheel is now smaller and removable. See later postings.

Here is an Index page for the build

Front bodywork

The front part of the bodywork was missing on my Special, that allows me to invent what you like in my opinion. I decided to add the missing panels bulkheads etc by fabricating the frame in 1" x 1" x 1.6mm  ERW steel square section hollow tube. I have started with a fairly simple structure but the improvement in torsional rigidly is already apparent. I tied the long longitudinal into the top of the cow horns. At this stage the joints are all just tack welded in case I change my mind.

I will add images here as I go along to help keep track of my progress.

Here is an Index page for the build

Transmission

The transmission fitting issues were initially thrown up by the engine trial fit (previous blog).

1) Diff: I needed to get Ruairidh to bail me out here by getting him to fit the inner seals. He fitted modern lip seals for me and yes there is a trick to it, and no I cannot explain adequately here, you have to see to believe it. Otherwise I assembled it as per the manual and some more bits from the Seven workshop.

2) Gearbox output flange: Ruairidh came to the rescue again, I managed to trade some windscreen supports for a gearbox output flange.

3) Torque tube flange: The dealer who sold me this did not have a four hole flange and was unable to supply one. I however managed to make an adapter plate out of steel stock.  I decided  I was not going not to just drill four holes in it and hope all aligns, I machined the differing indents for alignment into either side of the 6mm steel plate.

4) Rear springs: To check all the transmission interface and body fit issues I needed to trial fit the rear springs as well. I obtained new springs from Ruairidh's dad Ian. And assembled it using HTS U bolts.

5) Gear Linkage: Worked on the remote linkage for the best part of a day. The linkage, the selector blade and top spacer plate had to be modified.

Otherwise it all went together after a day and a half most of the time taken up by the diff refurb.




New gearbox flange + sliding joint position acceptablele

Torque tube adapter plate

Spring attachment points

Gear linkage

Problems

Clutch engagement

When I first mated the engine and gearbox, the operation of the clutch appeared very strange. Further discussions with  Ruairidh the operation of the clutch was deemed to be normal. The first inch takes up the free play in the pedal to thrust bearing contact. The next two inches takes up the thrust bearing to clutch leaver contact, the last inch (or less) is the actual clutch release plate compression area. I am an event competitor, and having the clutch take up in the last 0.5" (or less) is not what I am used to, I know this is going to cause me problems.

Solution:

I made an alloy round washer shaped spacer approx. 70mm od and 51mm id and 9mm thick and located it behind the release mechanism. I experimented with the thickness until I got what I think is an acceptable clutch feel. It now disengages less than  an inch after taking up the pedal free play. The pedal free play is eliminated using a spring pre tensioner having no adverse effect on the release bearing.

Update 4th Aug 2021

The gearbox was subsequently upgraded to a dog box that no longer needed the spacer or the spring fabrication. I know not why and will possibly remain a mystery.

 Here is an Index page for the build

Engine trial fit

Now that the engine has returned from Alba Austins in Glasgow it is time to trial fit it to the chassis and see if it all connects up. The purpose of all this is to throw up the problems and design the missing parts of the bodywork.

 

 

Engine running: https://youtu.be/23W3Rpedm4s

Diff flange 6 holes and prop shaft 4!

Gearbox tripod thing

Diff in place but not cleaned externally but  needs refurbed

Problems

The engine fits in the chassis, however the adapter plate coming out of the gearbox has 3 thingy's (meant to interface with a rubber flexi joint), the prop shaft has 4 holes in either end plate and the torque tube adapter has 6 holes.I have managed obtain from Ruairidh (Alba Austins) a 4 hole flange for the gearbox output, I may have to make an adapter converter plate for the torque tube flange.

The back axel was full of water, discovered at the blasting stage and has to be cleaned internally stripped down. Ruairidh replaced the inner seals for me however I need to adjust the inner bearings after rebuild and get the brakes working. The pivot pins are two different sizes neither of which fits the brake shoes I have.

Update 4th Aug 2021

The engine was fine as a restoration but I have had the engine further developed to produce an estimated 3x the original power with racing pistons, high lift cam shaft, lightened flywheel and racing gearbox.

 Here is an Index page for the build