Thursday 28 February 2019

Dynamator

I have been attracted for some time to a Dynamator conversion. I want to run the electric water pump thermostatically which takes a significant current. I also have a race type dry 12V battery.

After taking advice from Ruairidh of Alba Austins in Glasgow I decided to take the plunge, the gears at either end of the Dynamator were fitted from old stock. The reasoning being that only one gear is supplied and of questionable quality.

The conversion is relatively straight forward only the 3 securing bolts, two of which are in a relatively inaccessible place. Great patience is required to remove and reinsert them.

The next part is to attend to the wiring. I found it easier to replace the Lucas Regulator with a 4 way marine terminal block and relabelled the terminals exactly the same as the original regulator. The Yellow wire from the Dynamator (B) can then be shifted to the (A) terminal very easily. The red ignition warning light return (yellow)  can then be connected in a similar way to the Dynamator D terminal behind the dash panel (now Green).

My Austin seven wiring has now deviated from the original harness as I have added the following:

* High Torque Starter inc push button start
* Sparkright Distributor with LP dc filter for noise.
* Electric thermostatically controlled water pump
* Headlight dip relay and under dash toggle switch


Water pump thermostat

Dynamator


The results are spectacular, the race battery now copes with all the loads including headlights and water pump. The engine now self regulates the temperature well below boiling point (using a modern cored radiator).

Here is an Index page for the build